Champagne JM Goulard
Goulard has 18.5 acres of vines spread over some 50 small parcels, all in the sub-region known as the Massif de Saint-Thierry - a high elevation site to the north and west of Reims. it's technically part of the Montage de Reims, but is truly a terroir all its own. Viticulture on the Massif dates to the year 532, but the region has historically had a dearth of quality-oriented producers. Goulard's neighbor Chartogne-Taillet has emerged as a superstar in recent years, and has shone a bright light on the potential of the terroir when worked with precision and care.
Goulard is based in the village of Prouilly (don't even try to pronounce it, just go with it...) where there are two main soil types - a sandy-clay mix that favors Pinot Meunier, and limestone & clay over chalk that suits both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He grows all three grapes, but the majority of the estate is planted to Meunier.
Upon first tasting, we were blown away by Damien's wines, and snapped up everything he had available. Stylistically the Goulard wines are first and foremost about elegance and finesse.
Sitting across the table with a winemaker 20 different times over the course of 2 weeks (the way we do a few times a year) forces us to pay attention to small clues, little giveaways that speak to the mindset of what's going on with our partner wineries. It's not enough to just do wine talk. To understand what's going on we need to dig a few layers deeper. And sometimes those a-ha moments reveal themselves slowly.
And so it was that we were installed in the tasting room of Damien Goulard in November ‘22, first thing on a Monday morning following a big weekend of World Cup action. At first, he seemed a bit nervous that we were there, and those nerves quickly translated into the first bottle he opened exploding all over the floor around our chairs. He and maman jumped into action to clean it up, but I think it put Damien even more on edge. However, we dutifully proceeded with a really good tasting (like, REALLY good), and we all did our thing.
And then, amidst all the nerdy "wine pro" talk about each wine, a cool thing happened. Almost as an afterthought we began talking about viticulture, and specifically biodynamics, and immediately, the previously staid, doe-eyed Damien literally lit up. He nearly got onto a Vincent Bauchet-style rant about all the things he loved about farming, organics, sustainable viticulture, and all that jazz. It was a clear reminder to me that farming isn't ONLY about what is best for the plants and the land, but also about what excites and animates the actual farmer.
We’ll look forward to new releases from Damien's wonderful lineup of Champagne. WE think you will clearly see how his energy translates into the finished product -- a little quiet at first, but after 20 minutes, blossoming into something full-throated and complex.